Woodworking Plans

What kind of stand can hold up a levitation coil? What dimensions are appropriate?

The "right" size is whatever it takes to hold the parts. The framework is not critical and almost anything will work. You could also use an aluminum channel frame, and some people use an open construction without the shadow box. See this page for more ideas from other people.

If you completely lack any imagination whatsoever, here is something to get you started..

Woodworking Plans

The wooden bottom is cut from 8" x 3/4" pine shelving. Please note the bizarre American dimensional lumber system will actually measure somewhat smaller. The precise measurements show the wooden base is 1/2" thick pine shelving of 7-1/4" width, cut to a length of 16".

The levitation box is cut from 6" x 3/4" pine shelving. (It actually measures 5-1/2" wide and 1/2" thick.) From this cut two sides that are 9" long, and a top that is 6" long.

The back is made of 1/8" fiber board to keep out light. It is probably optional, but it does help brace the box against side loads.

Material List

8" x 3/4" pine shelving - 16 inches long
6" x 3/4" pine shelving - 24 inches long
1.5" wood screws - 8 ea.
1" brads to attach back - 12ea.
Misc. hardware to attach breadboard, heat sink, etc.

Suggested Improvements

My stand is very simple and relatively easy to build. However, it is a bit crude and there are many changes that would improve its appearance.

• The box should be made of 1/2" thick wood, not 3/4" which just looks a bit too much for the puny parts inside it. Also it would be easier to mount the small LEDs and optodetectors in 1/2" thick wood.
• The height of 9" is a bit tall. If it were only 6" high then it would look as good and the ball wouldn't make so much noise when it hits the bottom.
• Most of the base can be eliminated if you mount the breadboard vertically on one side of the box, instead of horizontally on the wide base. This makes it much easier to pack and carry.